Monday, November 18, 2013

Updated Hotend Effector

The hotend effector has been updated - here's the skinny on why and how to build the new version.  It requires new rail effectors as well, however the only change there is the width of the rods - the build instructions are identical.

Improvements:

  1. The new effector is much more compact.
  2. Much higher torsional stability
  3. Integrated Z-Min endstop (Experimental!)
  4. One fan per hotend
  5. Simpler hotend clamp
  6. Black.

Vitamins

  • 3x M5x20 socket cap screws
  • 3x M5 washers
  • 3x M5x40 socket head cap screw - make sure it's got a smooth part on it
  • 3x springs that'll fit around an M5
  • 6x M5 nuts
  • 1x M3x20mm screw
  • 1x M3 nut
  • 1x M3 washer
  • 1x M3 spring
  • 1-3 30mm fans
  • 1-3 hotends (pictures are using the e3d hotend.  It comes with 30mm fans, but they're not great.  I used some old ones that blow harder)
  • 1 tactile switch (digikey or just ask, I got a bunch of extras)

RepRapped Parts

Assembly

  1. Take the Tripleclamp first.
  2. Insert the M3 hardware into the center hole - nut into the nut trap, washers and springs above:
  3. Insert an M5 nut into all three nut slots, then loosely screw in the shorter M5 screws with washers.
  4. Take the longer M5 bolts and springs, and drop in through the top of the tripleclamp (the top is the shiny part).  It should be a semi-loose fit.
  5. solder two of the switches leads, on the same side - you'll need to bend them sideways to get it in the hole, and also bust off the other ones.  Make sure to test the switch - if you pick the two wrong contacts, it'll be always shorted.
  6. Insert the switch into the hotend effector, wires through the holes.
  7. Insert the three long M5 bolts down into the hotend effector itself.  There are three nut traps inside the side holes, hidden away.
  8. Tighten lightly.



And there you have it.  Hotends can be inserted now, as well as fans.  If you use the E3d hotend, well, the fans don't fit in their slots - but you can hot glue 'em in just fine.  Wire it up, and let 'er rip!

I am currently stress-testing this setup - running some long prints to shake it down.  Next step is activating the Z-Min endstop, but that'll be another blog post.









No comments:

Post a Comment