Mark 4 build - step 2: Prism: assembly 1

Once the triangles are complete, you can construct the uprights for the bot.  It uses 2060 extrusion with OpenRail attached.  In the future, this may change to using v-groove rail directly.

Vitamins:

• 3   * 1000mm 2060 aluminum exrtusion (misumi)
• 3   * 1500mm openrail v-rails
• 24 * T-nuts (included with openrail)
• 24 * M5 by 10mm button cap screws (included with openrail.  Be sure to specify 10mm screws!)

RepRapped Parts:

• No new parts, Just the brackets from the triangle assembly.

Tools:

• 3mm ball-end hex key
• Rubber or wooden mallet
• Knife to clean parts
• M5 tap

1. Tap your extrusions.  This isn't necessary for this step, but it'll make adding feet much easier in the future.  I tapped the center hole of each end of the long exstrusions for good measure.
2. Cut the openrail in half.  You should have 2 750mm sections.
3. Pre-thread the T-nuts through the rails.  I used every other hole.
1. Notice the v-sections interlocking.

4.  Slide the v-rails into the 2060 aluminum.  Lightly tighten a few bolts such that there's about 125mm gap at either end.

5.  Clean up the brackets - make sure that both top and bottom of each bracket is free of lips/ridges that could catch on the extrusion.

6.  Slide the rails into the idler triangle.  Carefully align the t-nuts in the brackets, and tap home with the mallet.  This step is tedious!  Go slow and make sure all the t-nuts slide in.

7.  When all three vertical beams are installed, repeat for the motor triangle.  Be sure that your colors line up!  Hint: You can flip the motor triangle to make the colors align.  You can't flip the idlers, which is why we started up there :-)

8.  Finally, loosen the rails and slide them tight against the idler brackets.  There will be a gap above the motors.

9.  Align the v-rails on the extrusion and tighten every screw.

That's me!

Bertha Mark 4 next to Mark 3.  3 looks bigger, but the print area will be about the same.